Cattleya Russian River Pinot Noir - The Perfect BIG Pinot
This is a producer which absolutely should be on your radar. I’ve enjoyed the past few vintages of Bibiana Gonzalez-Ravé’s wines, especially her Pinots and Syrahs. Bluntly said - they have the makings of wines that will go mailing-list only pretty soon.
For those who like California Pinot Noir, you’ll find a style of Pinot that’s a Burgundy/Cali hybrid. Think of the fruit-forward yet complex and mouthwatering wines from Rochioli and Hartford Court. Gonzalez-Ravé was the winemaker at Wayfarer Estate up until 2016 and sources from Martinelli, Sunchase and Goldrock vineyards, among others. They are WOW wines that jump in your lap with expressive complexity more than they are HMM wines that reward careful consideration.
The quality of fruit in the glass is absolutely nuts - the beauty and intensity of the Pinot Noir is so elevated and centered in the wine that I fear it will turn into just another overripe Dr. Pepper lozenge - but it never does. Balanced acidity keeps focus on that great, clove-y black cherry puree with suggestions of licorice, candied violets and slate. But they’re only suggestions, you can smell and taste whatever you want!
It’s such an expertly crafted wine that I can’t help but just appreciate that it is completely serious but also so utterly, obviously yummy at the same time. The flavors are concentrated, the acidity keeps them humming - it’s just exciting juice!
Also worth mentioning is how good the 2023 Sonoma Coast Pinot is - arguably even better - with those coastal fruit profiles that perhaps more closely resemble Volnay and Pommard. Dark black raspberry and brambleberry fruit that has this sort of gauzy sheen to it - like tasting a watercolor where the pigment bleeds to clear - along with an acidic core that’s more counterpointed than the RRV. It’s like you added cranberry or a citrus shrub in there.
Bibiana grew up in Colombia but spent time in France, South Africa and California, learning at Haut Brion, Ogier, Clusel Roch, Peay Vineyard, Au Bon Climat and others before becoming winemaker at Wayfarer. She’s married to Jeff Pisoni, winemaker at his family’s winery, and together, they make Shared Notes, a Sauvignon Blanc-only project that I would say is already the peer of many of the top white Bordeaux and Loire SB producers. The wines are expensive, but are worth the occasional splurge - especially if you love intense, full-bodied expressions of the grape.
About 200cs of the Pinot are made each vintage. The barrel selection wines are also recommended, especially Belly of the Whale.